La Canopée loves allergens and you should too!

It is the same in cosmetics. We expect our skincare products to act on a certain skin problem, and they can do so because they are loaded with active molecules! Not all active ingredients in cosmetics are classified as allergens, of course, but conversely, all allergens are interesting active ingredients, at least in our formulations. If an active molecule seems harmful to us, it is discarded; this is what happens, for example, with the furocoumarins contained in lemon essential oil. These molecules are photosensitizing, so we select an essential oil without furocoumarins (called "defurocoumarinized" for Scrabble lovers😉) so as not to risk skin problems.

Contrary to common perception, many allergens of natural origin are actually active molecules that are beneficial to the skin. For example, limonene, a common allergen found in citrus fruits, is also a powerful antibacterial and antioxidant agent. Similarly, linalool, another frequent allergen found in lavender, has soothing and healing properties. Thus, instead of fearing them, these allergens can contribute to the efficacy of cosmetic products by providing their natural benefits to the skin.

Here is an anecdote that led us to write this article. The term "allergen" is "so scary" that an analysis laboratory once advised us to remove orange blossom hydrosol from one of our cosmetics to put only... water!
It is obviously a mistake to give in to panic at the term "allergen" when one comes to think that even orange blossom water, which has soothing and calming properties, should be removed from our formulas. We are warning that natural cosmetics could become impoverished due to the bad press about allergens and that some brands that will rush into this anxiety-inducing "allergen-free" gap will only end up selling water to their customers.

At La Canopée, we want and need to make it understood that, yes, nature can be very powerful, but that is where our core business lies: the knowledge of raw materials and green chemistry. This is what makes us affirm that we love allergens and that you should too! But I am sure that after reading this article, you will agree with us.

Recently, cosmetic regulations expanded the list of allergens, moving from 26 to 82 allergens to be reported. INCI lists from brands will therefore get longer.
An allergen must be reported in a cosmetic as soon as it reaches 0.001% of the formula for a leave-on product and 0.01% for a rinse-off product.

These are not new allergens, but after study by the European Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety, it emerged that the precautionary principle should be applied in order to warn the concerned consumers. This is a step in the right direction for the health of allergic individuals. But it seems important to us to understand that the presence of an allergen in a cosmetic product does not mean beforehand that it will cause undesirable reactions in everyone.

This is, incidentally, the same problem with apps that rate cosmetics. Some of our skincare products are poorly rated just because of the presence of allergens. This clearly shows their lack of knowledge about the nature of allergens and what natural cosmetics are. Unfortunately, this type of actor contributes to the anxiety-inducing aspect of this subject because users trust their "judgment," except that one cannot reasonably rate a natural allergen in the same way as a substance that would be truly harmful. Yet, this is the case, and users, unless they are specialists, cannot tell the difference.

For example, in our sun concentrate serum, which is a very powerful skincare product loaded with active ingredients, there are several allergens at the end of the INCI list: farnesol, geraniol, limonene, Benzyl Salicylate, Benzyl Benzoate, and linalool. Here are their properties and benefits for the skin:

- Farnesol, found in various essential oils, is valued for its antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties, making it a precious ingredient in skincare products to fight acne and skin inflammation.

- Geraniol, found in abundance in geranium and rose essential oils, offers soothing and regenerating benefits for the skin, promoting a more radiant appearance and a softer texture.

- Limonene, extracted mainly from citrus fruits, is widely used for its refreshing and invigorating fragrance, as well as for its antioxidant and toning properties.

- Benzyl salicylate is widely used in cosmetics for its pleasant and floral scent. In addition to its delicate fragrance, benzyl salicylate offers softening properties for the skin, helping to maintain its hydration and suppleness.

- Benzyl benzoate is valued for its sweet and warm fragrance. In addition to its pleasant scent, benzyl benzoate possesses antimicrobial and antifungal properties, making it a useful ingredient in skincare products to help fight skin infections and maintain healthy skin.

- As for linalool, it is renowned for its calming and healing properties, helping to soothe skin irritation and promote cellular regeneration. These allergens, although potentially sensitizing for some people, are also precious ingredients in natural cosmetic products, offering a multitude of benefits for the skin.

In conclusion, it is time to change our perception of naturally derived allergens in cosmetics. Rather than fearing them, we should view them as allies in our quest for healthy, radiant skin. By understanding their true nature and using common sense in our product choices, we can fully enjoy the benefits of natural and vegan cosmetics while minimizing potential risks. It is time to de-dramatize naturally derived allergens and welcome them as essential actors in our beauty routine.